The Pawpaw, America’s Largest Edible Fruit, Grows Quietly in Baltimore
by Lydia Woolever
Printed July 28 in Baltimore Journal
Excerpt: Doron Kutnick emerges from the overflowing shrubs of his white farmhouse in Hampstead before his first cup of espresso. It’s late June, just days in advance of the summer months solstice, and at 9 a.m., the morning shade nevertheless sweeps throughout the open fields and enclosed greenhouses of the two-acre Two Boots Farm that he operates with his wife, Elisa.
But we’re not here for the flowers and vegetables that expand in advance of us, becoming tended to by many staff before the day’s warmth unfurls like a stretching cat. Rather, in a straw hat and gray T-shirt, holding a ceramic mug, Kutnick ambles down the hill, earlier the persimmons, into a meadow-like path, and as a result of the forest, which eventually leads to a smaller clearing, loaded with rows and rows of pawpaw trees.
“It’s a attractive tree, and it seriously is a lot of enjoyment to acquire treatment of these items,” states Kutnick, standing amidst the slender grey trunks and broad symmetrical leaves of some 200, ranging in dimensions from modest, grafted saplings to 12-foot specimens dangling with powdery inexperienced clusters of what glimpse like delicate-skinned avocados or unripe mangos.